Wednesday, May 30, 2012

Lemon Custard Squares and Singin in the Rain

Today I bring you one of my favorite recipes and one of my favorite movies. Lemon custard squares and Singin' in the Rain go together like peanut butter and jelly, or summer and superhero movies.

Ah, yes...summer. It has arrived here in Boston. We had a rainy start to May, but the Memorial Day weekend was gorgeous. The scent of flowers permeates the air, sweet and antique. My Old Navy flip-flops are back on (lamentably, I lost my black pair). Summer hear means flocking to the air-conditioned theater to watch The Avengers, sprinkling mochi on top of my peach Pinkberry, and listening to the far-off beat of music from someone's barbecue. Of course, I also can't wait for day excursions to maritime communities, like up in Maine or right here in Massachusetts. On Memorial Day, I went to Nantasket Beach with my fiance, where I walked in the surf until the high tide bubbled up around my legs.

The Atlantic Ocean as seen from Gloucester, MA


Summer also means wonderful food to me. Though I am a vegetarian, I still get a kick out of barbecues. A grilled veggie burger tastes just as good--seriously!--on a bun slathered with lettuce, tomato, cheese, and mustard (I know I'm in the minority here, but I actually hate ketchup). Corn on the cob with scallion butter is a must-have, and in terms of salads, my mom made a delicious panzanella last year. A panzanella is a Tuscan salad of tomatoes, garlic, basil, and pieces of crusty, rustic bread...so different and delicious. As for desserts, anything small, quick and fruity will do for the summer, like the Lemon Custard Squares.

Harbor, still in Gloucester
I chose Singin' in the Rain as the movie for this month because it inspires such joy, just like summer. The squares are yellow like Gene Kelly and Debbie Reynolds's raincoats and so light and airy, just like the tone of the overall film. Here are Dan's thoughts:

Singin' in the Rain



If the movies have created a cure for the blues it is in the Musical, where all of life’s problems are solved by song and dance. That’s not to say that all musicals are or have to be unequivocally happy, but Singin’ in the Rain is the most joyous and the best one of all. It can lift the most forlorn of moods, because at its heart it is about the power of optimism. 

The docks at Boothbay Harbor, Maine

Optimism is what saves the careers of Don Lockwood (Gene Kelly) a silent star threatened by the coming of the talkies. It makes the career of Kathy Selden (Debbie Reynolds), a dancing girl with a voice made for the movies. Ultimately, it is a lack of optimism in progress more than a shrill voice that ruins the career of Lena Lamont (Jean Hagen delivering a plum performance). 

Singin’ in the Rain is the most infallible of musicals because it is so confident in the ability of its tunes. I’ve yet to see a musical sure enough of itself to seek the redeeming qualities of rain. “Singin’ in the Rain” was not written for this movie, but would anyone still remember it if Gene Kelly had not sung it while splashing through puddles and twirling around light poles? It’s the heart of the movie because it speaks of its essence, making lemonade out of lemons. 

Boothbay Harbor, Maine


For my money, though, the most effective number is “Moses Supposes”. It never fails on me, and I can’t recall a time I’ve sat through it without getting up and joining Gene Kelly and Donald O’Connor in cavorting around the speech therapists office. The seamless energy of it all is irresistible.

 Gene Kelly would go on to make a number of musicals with director Stanley Donen and many of them remain gorgeous festivities. But I’ll be damned if ever a musical will ever “make ‘em laugh” as much as Singin’ in the Rain. 

Thanks, Dan! And for lovers of Singin' in the Rain, I also recommend The Artist, last year's Oscar winner also about the transition from silent films to talkies.

Anyways, these lemon squares are so, so good. Unfortunately I don't have pictures of them because the camera ran out of batteries just as I was about to snap a shot. But don't let the absence of pictures stop you! These are THE BEST lemon squares I've ever tried. Rather than sugary translucent yellow glop on top, these lemon squares have a custard-like component, soft, billowy, eggy, with a noticeable but subtle trace of yellow. The base is all homemade too, a crumbly butter cookie batter. These squares come from Baking: A Commensense Guide, a book I wholeheartedly trust.

Lemon Custard Squares
Ingredients:
  • 4 1/2 oz. unsalted butter
  • 1/3 cup superfine sugar
  • 1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour, sifted
  • Confectioners' sugar for dusting
Topping:
  • 4 eggs, lightly beaten
  • 1 cup superfine sugar
  • 1/4 cup lemon juice
  • 1 tsp. finely grated lemon zest
  • 1/4 cup all-purpose flour
  • 1/2 tsp. baking powder
1) Preheat oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit. Lightly grease an 8 x 12 in shallow baking tin and line with parchment paper, leaving the paper hanging over two opposite sides.
2) Cream butter and superfine sugar with electric beaters until pale and fluffy. Fold in flour, then use your hands to moisten the flour and make the mixture crumbly. Press mixture evenly into the tin. Bake for 20 minutes, or until golden. Let cool.
3) For the topping: Beat eggs and sugar with electric beaters for 2 minutes, or until light and fluffy. Stir in the lemon juice and zest. Sift flour and baking powder together and gradually whisk into egg mixture. Pour onto the base.
4) Bake for 25 minutes, or until just golden. Let cool. Dust with confectioner's sugar before serving.

Next week: I'm thinking The Godfather, not sure on the recipe